Shopping for a second hand bike? It’s easy to pay too much for something if you don’t really know what you’re looking for or what questions to ask.

Treat the following advice as being general in nature – there will always be exceptions and outliers – but it’s a good place to start. Being friendly and flexible is just as important as being informed and cautious.

1. Determine the Exact Year and Model (Spec)

• What was the original RRP?

2. Calculate Depreciation: Rough Estimates

• If major retailers are discounting the model significantly, expect used prices to be even more aggressive.

3. Apply Extra Caution for Older or Obsolete Bikes

• Bikes with old and incompatible parts (especially 10+ years old) lose most of their value. Any bike in this condition should be well below $1,000.

4. Used Mountain Bikes

• Apply the above depreciation rules, but also:

  • “Custom upgrades” and “brand new rear wheel” can indicate a history of hard use or past mechanical problems.

  • Saying that a bike has been ‘fully serviced’ is all well and good, but needs receipts or some other proof to confirm.

  • Dual suspension bikes more than 2 years old are already potentially 12 months past due for fork and shock rebuilds, at an average cost of $580 (total). Saying they’ve been done is worthless without receipts or photos.

5. Presentation

• Does the bike look clean and maintained? It is easy to tell the difference between “used and cared for” and “utterly flogged”. A chain that is caked in thick black sludge and grit guarantees most of the drivetrain needs replacing, along with who knows what else.

• View the bike in good daylight. Low light can disguise defects and wear.

6. How the Market Affects Second Hand Prices

• If bike shops are clearing out the same model at a heavy discount, second hand sets a new (lower) benchmark.

• The rarer and more “exotic,” custom, or high-dollar the bike, the less depreciation math matters—these often set their own prices based on demand and uniqueness.